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t1007.txt
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1994-09-08
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1007 WINDOWS, DOORS AND TRIM TOOLS
Measuring and layout tools
Window, door and trim projects require exacting measurements. If you're replacing a piece of
molding, lay the new one alongside the old and transfer dimensions with a combination square.
For new work, mark cuts that are 1/16 inch longer than needed, then sand or file for a perfect fit.
The big trick in marking miter cuts is to pay attention to their directions so the miters join
properly. If you hold the uncut molding in the position in which it will be installed, you'll get
most cuts right the first time - and even pros miscut miters occasionally.
Mark trimwork cuts with a sharp pencil or, better yet, a sharp knife or the scribing tool that
comes with most combination squares. Indicate the cutoff point with the tip of a V. A dot is too
small to see - a short line might veer one way or another.
Cutting tools
Don't try to cut window or door components or moldings freehand. At minimum you will need a
metal miter box and a backsaw, which cuts on the backstroke. Inexpensive wood or plastic miter
boxes guide only 45- and 90-degree cuts and grow sloppy with use. With the more expensive
metal boxes, you insert the saw into a slotted metal pivot, then set the blade at any angle your
project requires.
If you will be doing an extensive amount of trim work, buy or rent a power miter saw. It makes
fast, accurate cuts.
CAUTION: treat a power miter saw with respect. Accidents can happen, especially if you're in a
hurry or preoccupied with other matters. It's a good idea to make sure that the blade guard is
operating properly before you turn the saw on. Also, keep your hands a safe distance away from
the blade.
For coped cuts at inside corners, you will also need a coping saw. Its narrow blade excels at
following all sorts of curves and tight-quarter cuts. You can even make inside cuts by drilling a
hole in the material, removing the blade from the frame, inserting the blade in the hole and
reassembling the saw.
Nailing tools
Fasten trim with 4- or 6-penny casing nails. Besides a hammer, you will need a drill to make
pilot holes and a nail set for sinking nail heads beneath the surface. Fill nail dimples with wood
putty. For added strength, glue joints before nailing.
If a nail bends while you're driving it, pull it with pliers, not the hammer's claw, which could
dent the molding. Yank any bent nail. Don't try to straighten it and continue hammering.